Altura

25th February

I haven't really talked about Motorhomes very much. As we are in a house for a month, it is not top of mind, but we are always noticing any Aires, or large groups. Most are unofficial where car parks have a barrier and simply ask for E5 a day. That is what happens at Barril Beach and at Monte Rota (although there is water here and some electricity) and so when we arrive at Altura we are surprised to find a very large group of vans at the beach end of the village camping out on some rough ground by a walkway to the beach.

To be honest, I think Motorhomes seem to taking over Portugal. Wherever we go, there are at least as many Motorhomes or Campers passing as there are cars and I just hope they don't kill the golden goose. Wild camping is great fun but hundreds parked up nose to tail on wasteland is not nice for the campers or for the locals.

Altura was about to start their Carnival and all the roads were lined with stadium style seating. So we had our beach walk, and a coffee at a popular beach restaurant in front of Eurotel Hotel, and then made our way out of Altura going East. I had noticed a no-through road leading to the beach a bit further on from Altura and we arrived at a large Hotel on Verde beach. The restaurant marked on my iPhone was Panoramique Infante, which looked closed, but we went to the restaurant next door on the west side of this. They allowed dogs and we had a scrumptious tapas lunch of anchovies, courgette and goats cheese something or rather with a hot onion and port wine and cinnamon compote. As well as tomato and mozzarella bruchetta. That with a glass of vino casa was E22 for two. Our most expensive lunch yet, but a beautiful location.

 

 

 

Black Spatchcock

24th February

Lovely day so off for a bike ride this morning. But I went East towards Barrill Beach. Didn't make it but cycled up long, not very steep hill, which wore me out. At least I am trying.
The ride took me along the lagoon edge which is very beautiful anyway, and has some great properties.

Late afternoon walk at Fuseta and then shopping. Tonight we are going to have a Barbie. Hopefully not too late so won't be too dark. Firstly we need to identify something that we can happily cook on the Barbie. I come up with Spatchcock chicken. JC hates chicken but accepts that occasionally we will have to use it and if it is char grilled, all the better. Thankfully found one ready packaged as the thought of acting out how to smash a poor chicken flat to the butcher didn't fill me with much glee.

We then need to walk the pups somewhere and whilst we have been to Santa Luzia for a meal, we haven't really walked round the town or looked at whether there is a beach there. Sure enough there is
a small beach and whilst snuffling around one of the old boats near the water edge, Kicker disturbs a cat which takes flight. A split second later both dogs start to run flat out ......and straight into each other, knocking each other over. Thankfully, as it meant the poor cat had 5 seconds start on Kicker, and with no trees or cover for at least 100 yards of beach, it needed it.

The dog returned from this chase completely worn out and we returned to the house to prepare for the Barbie. JC has identified charcoal in a sealed dustbin and we agree to light up at 6.30.

Hilarious, I think the charcoal must be very old, but even with fire lighters it doesn't really want to burn and hasn't done much by 7.15. We have tried blowing, and waving the air about but nothing. Finally I fetch the bicycle pump and we start with that. Very slowly some embers start to glow, and we slosh a bit of olive oil for good measure. The chicken goes on, and remarkably starts cooking quite fast. Faster in fact than the potatoes, so that by the time they are done we have already eaten the completely burnt chicken. Well, you live and learn!

Navigation and Processionary Caterpillars

23rd February

Everything has changed colour this morning. The white painted steps down to the garden are brown, the table and chairs are brown and the van is brown. The sky has opened during the night and the Sahara has been deposited to the Algarve. Honestly, I have never seen anything like it. We have to hose everything down and even using water doesn't clean it off. So we start out late and today we are going to Tavira to the daily market there. We have already been to Tavira twice and both times have been a disaster, navigation wise, leading to loud and unpleasant works between JC and I. If Jv drives around country lanes and towns I get really nervous about how close he gets to the kerb and other cars etc, so he is very happy to let me drive, but he hasn't got the hang of naviation technology and prefers to use maps. As we know they are of no use in a town and therefore he has had to grasp the iPhone map app.
Today, I have put in the location of the market and off we go, with him watching the oscillating blue blob moving along the trail. As usual we end up in a narrow lane (one way) with metal posts either side obstructing any wide van or motorhome the ability to mount the pavement if needs be. So by the time we get close to the market place, tempers are frayed and it is agreed to park up and find our way by foot. It is cloudy so dogs can stay in the van. We find a place in a car park and walk up a steep hill to where the oscillating blob stops.............Outside the municipal museum. We look at each other. How did we get from going to the Municipal marketplace to the municipal museum. Actually quite funny.  The municipal marketplace is clearly 7 minutes drive from where we are!

So, to cut a long and loud story very short, by the time we got there all the stalls other than some veg ones had gone home!

As we drive home it starts to rain and the offside windscreen wiper seems to turn itself inside out. We stop the van and JC get out and grabs the wipe which comes off in his hand. It appears that it is not the one for the Fiat and has just been jammed on in place. Luckily JC has seen a Motorhome service garage and it is enroute home. After much Ponglais they fit a brand spanking new one and we are sorted.

This evening we are going out with Sara and Danny, our new friends from Manchester staying at one of the local houses. We have decided to eat at the local fish place as it is in walking distance and they haven't been there. I notice she has a rash on her neck but assume it is an allergy to the sun or something. Later on when talking about the house, I explain that a Swedish couple who are staying locally are wanting to have a look at Sara and Danny's house with a view to taking it all next winter, but she may be put off by the Processionary Caterpillars. These are horrible things that nest in hundreds together in a loom in pine trees.

They devour the pine by night killing the tree and when fully developed march down the tree to find a place to burrow for the summer. They each have thousands of tiny poisonous hairs on them and if snuffled by a dog for instance, the dog would loose its nose or tongue or worse. If it drops on a human it will give them a nasty rash!!

Sara then shows us her rash on her arms and stomach. It looks terrible and actually I thought it was fleas. But Danny hasn't got it. Being a doctor Sara brushes off the problem, but it looks very uncomfortable.

Portugese Dogs

22nd February,

A gorgeous day. I am gong to try and cycle to Fuseta today. Can't be beaten by my husband, and as he says. "You've got all day. Just take it slowly."

A wonderful bike ride across the salt pans which are full of all sorts of birds that I don't recognise. Even using my new Monocular I can't distinguish them, other than the Hoopoe which looks like he has an elongated trilby on his head and makes the most wonderful noise whilst ducking his head forward. He is also very beautiful.

The ride was uneventful other than I found a gear on my bike that I had never used before! Ah, now I get it.

During the ride I think about the beautiful large,white dog which is chained up on the drive of the house 24/7 at the end of the road. It has a filthy, tiny kennel which it wouldn't be able to get into, so no shade and as far as I can see no permanent water offered. It is never let off the chain and simply left there to bark and growl at anyone that goes past. It is heart breaking. I have already phoned one of the Portugese animal charities and they have explained that is how it is in Portugal and provided he has at least 1.5 m of chain, shade and water it is not illegal. Hmm.

The owners are Portugese and I start asking around. Anyone that speaks English is stopped and asked if they know the owners and what do they think about the way they keep the dog. Most are upset that it is never walked or has any love, but what can they do. So, I write a letter.

Dear Dog Owners,

I am an English tourist staying in Pinheiro for a couple of weeks. I have noticed that you have a beautiful, large, white dog which is chained up in the driveway outside your house. He barks when I go past and gets up slowly on his hind legs to check that I am not about to enter the property.

In England a dog is regarded as “A man’s best friend”.  Dogs are part of a family and live with the family. They are loved and treated with respect and kindness. In return, the dog offers loyalty and love to us humans.

 I know the Portugese way of life is to have a guard dog, but we too use our dogs to guard our houses, and expect them to bark when a guest or intruder arrives, and that is all fine by us. But we are still able to offer them comfort, love and the kindness that an animal needs to survive.
If a dog is not exercised and given mental stimulation and love, then it will become very depressed and eventually die. To chain a dog up on a hot, stone drive, with a small kennel (that is too small for the dog) and no permanent water supply is not fair to the dog. I know you think he is fine, but he is not.

As you know there are numerous dogs in Pinheiro and one or other of them are always barking through the day and night, but none, other than yours, is chained up day and night and all have exercise. I know that some of these residents are concerned about your dog.

So, I am writing to urge you to reconsider the way you are treating him. He would make such a beautiful pet to you if only you would allow him to. He can guard your house when you are away if he has shade and water, but he must have some comfort at night and be able to walk around freely.

He has a heart and he has feelings, and I cannot believe that you don’t have them too.

Yours faithfully,

Mandy

Of course, they wouldn't understand this, so I would need to get it translated. So I ask around but no one is competent in both languages, so eventually I resort to the internet and make contact with a translator in London. A lady called Debbie who is moved my the letter and gives me a £5 discount!

Hopefully she can do it before we have to move from here. We shall see.

 

 

Another van pallava

21st February

Sun it out and it is warm. Hooray.
We have explored the villages along the coast to Vila Cachela, so decide to go one further today to Manta Rota where the beach runs out from the land. ie It is at the end of the Ria de Fomosa lagoon area.

I am not sure if we have missed something but whilst the front is very pleasant with smart walkways
and green areas, the town is  a bit of a dump. We walked up a couple of streets to try and find the core of the village but there was nothing. Just a couple of cafes, so after a stretch for all on the glorious white beach and a walk through the enormous motorhome park (unofficial),

we made our way to our now favourite beach, Fabrica, for lunch.

The little car park on the front was fairly full but we found a place between 2 x enormous motorhomes, and because it is close to the restaurant we decide to leave the dogs in the van. So, I open the electric skylight right up and then open both large side windows. These swing open and are hinged along the top, so when they are completely open they sit at right angles to the van and the wind can whistle through. However, the big sliding door cannot be opened fully on the nearside when the window is open. A stupid design fault and easy to bump the window slightly when you open the door. So, dogs inside we get a lovely table by the water's edge and devour clams with vino de casa and all in the world is good. The view is gorgeous.

After lunch, we take the pups for a quick run on the beach and then back to the van. I close the big nearside window which requires lifting it first and then it drops down into place. As it dropped down there was a quiet ding...... as a small piece of plastic hits the gravel. I pick it up before realising it is the corner of our precious window! When the door hit the window, despite it only being very slightly, it moved the window along in its groove so that it would now not fit in the recess when closed, and because the top corner is the first bit to hit the van, this is the bit that cracked off. AHHH. We look at each other. Memories of Wishsteam 1 come to mind, where the whole skylight ripped off in a blast of wind and we lashed it down with dogs leads for the entire trip home.

I unscrew the two arms holding the acrylic window in place and we can then slide the window back to its proper position. JC is muttering that we are never using that window again, and I am in agreement especially as the corner of it is now missing.

Back at the house I bring out the Gorilla tape which I knew we would need. Its descriptive strap line on the pack says, "For the toughest jobs on the planet". Yep, this is the one! Strap the broken bit back on, inside, outside round the back, over the top. Job done. Groan. I remember how much that simple skylight cost on the Burstner.

The joys of motorhoming.

Tough

20th February

Tough is the name of my new camera.
The camera shop is hidden in the middle of an industrial estate on the way into Olhao. I hadn't found any camera shops online when I looked, so not sure how they do their business. But again, incredibly helpful guy in there speaking perfect English. He explained that they would have to send the camera away, so that was no good. He asked if I had taken the camera to the beach which of course I had and felt that some sand had got into the zoom casing. Yep, probably, but that camera has been everywhere and I've never had a problem. Anyway, they sell the new Panasonic Lumix 30 x zoom etc. But I am wondering if I really want that now. I am going to use it on the beach whatever. I looked at the other cameras there and came across this one.

 Olympus Tough TG 360. Waterproof, shockproof, dustproof, sandproof, frostproof. Amazing. It has wifi so can send pics to computer or ipad easily. It has GPS so you know where pics are taken and you can also tell where you are, and I think it has GPS tracking, but haven't tried that yet.

So, the downside is that it only has a small digital zoom so can't get any detail pics of any birds at a distance, but hopefully I will get the Panasonic mended in the UK for that.

The Belgians who rented the house just along from us left last week and a couple from Manchester have moved in for a week. We have invited them over for a drink. Quel Horreur. JC only has one bottle of red left. I say no worries, we have gin and lots of white. But what happens if they want red and I don't have any left for later.

They are coming at 6.30. It is now 5.15, and he disappears out of the door saying he was going for a bike ride anyway. Oh God, the nearest shop is miles away.

He returns at 6.15 with 2 bottles of red. And all is well. Sara is a phychiatrist and Danny lectures sport. They are both really nice, easy company and interesting. They stayed till 9.00 and drank 1.5 bottles of red!

Market Day

19th February

Most villages have markets on a particular day of the week and some have daily markets offering fruit, veg, and fresh fish. Today we have chosen to go to the monthly market at Vila Nova De Cachela. The village just inland of Vila Cachela. A really enjoyable day with lots of stalls selling anything and everything. We both bought new slippers for E5 each and a multi pack (12 Pairs) of cotton socks for E5.

The Iberian ham off the bone is delicious as is the chorizo and Portugese equivalent of Parmesan. Large barbeques cooking spatchcock type chicken and bacon, and oddly no fish. Loved it.

Across the road to Vila Cachela beach although we didn't actually make it onto the beach there.

You need waders or a boat, but actually a lovely walk down to it. And then after dropping JC and the pups off, I went of to Olhao to negotiate return of the camera. The staff in the shop 'Box' were amazing. They are all so knowledgable and helpful. They understood my problem and gave me my money back without question. They then got the map of Olhao up on their computer and showed me a place that might be able to mend the camera or if not most likely would have new Panasonics in store.

Portugese Dogs

18th February

Cloudy and cold. JC embarrassed me again by riding to Fuseta for the groceries. Approx 3.0 miles each way. It was his second time and I haven't even managed to get there. Meanwhile the lady (Rachael) that handles the change over turns up and says she is going to change our sheets and clean the kitchen. Great. We have a good old chat, mostly about the way the Portugese keep (or don't) their dogs. There is a gorgeous large white dog at the end of the road, kept on a chain 24/7. Never exercised, has no shade, and I can,t see any water. I get really upset every time I pass him. He looks so miserable and just barks all day. I ask Rachael if there is anything I can do.  She has rescued so many dogs and cats herself she says it is all pretty hopeless. She has 4 dogs and 6 cats. If you report the dog it may be taken away but will probably be put down. Anyway, it is food for thought.

Rachael tells me about an electrical shop in Olhao not far from here that sells cameras and may repair mine. Unfortunately, they say they can't repair it and have only a limited number of cameras to sell. In fact, only one zoom like one. A Canon which is all singing and dancing so I have to bite the bullet and buy it.

At home, I try to get excited about the camera which seems to be a good replacement for mine but not as good and JC points out it is bigger than mine, and then I find I have to manually flip up the flash and then I decide to take it back.


 

Camera

The most notable happening today is that my camera no longer works. it is a Panasonic Zoom and has been fantastic, but the 30 x zoom just doesn't anymore. Doesn't even come out one mm, so it is jammed. So, I need to get something for this holiday or get it repaired. We set off towards a sort of Curry's type shop called Worten, in the pouring rain and decide to walk the dogs on the beach somewhere before going shopping. The info in the house says that whilst all the local beaches need to be reached by ferry (other than Fuseta and Fabrica) it says the ferries run all year. So, we drive to Cabanas and park up. not a mean feat in itself as the streets of Cabanas are not wide. There is no sign of any activity on the pontoons that advertise the ferries. One small motor boat is moored on one of them and I go down to enquire. "not enough people here now". He says grumpily. So, a short walk on the tiny beach there and then back to the house to look at camera shops online. Shopping at Worten didn't feel like a good idea.
We are eating out every couple of days, either lunch or dinner. And so we decide to go back to Colibri at Moncarpacho as we know the food is good.

I had the monkfish wrapped in bacon with prawns on the vertical skewer and JC had lamb chops just like they do it in Greece. Thin and crispy. The food was excellent and really well priced at E29 including a bottle of wine.

Fuseta for lunch

16th February

The sun, she is coming ...finally. And Fuseta beach looks gorgeous.

Had lunch in a tiny Portuguese restuarant off the main square called Pierrot. Barbque chicken and salad and chips at €4.50 was good for me, and Jc had a shrimp omelet. I am getting fat now!

Barril beach

15th February


We tried to visit the beach earlier in our stay but felt the walk of 1.3km there and back would be too much for Gybo, and the little train refuse tomtake dogs. In fact they are not supposed to even be on the beach at all.

So we leave them in the van with the skylight open and the front windows open a bit, and catch the little train across the island to the beach. There used to be a tuna fishing station here and there is a graveyard of anchors which looks pretty impressive. The cafes are very popular with the local sparrows who are incredibly brave.

 

A large gathering of motorhomes can be seen to the West of the bridge onto Barril beach. Looks like they have simply paid a small fee to get into a Car Park there.

Algarve Shopping Centre

It is raining. Not drops. PLOPS. Large lumps of water that fill up every puddle and soak absolutely every mm of you within seconds. We sit inside. It has been a dodgy start with JC giving me a lovely box of strawberries and me giving him ...... RIEN.

But I have booked a restaurant for tonight in Santa Luzia just down the road from here. The english speaking owner said she had only one table left. So that's sorted.

I need a thick jumper or puffa to wear in the house as it is just not warm. So I am to go alone to Olhao to the shopping centre there. No idea where I will park but in this weather I am hoping there will be plenty of places.
The road between the main E125 and here is running with water and some flooding in places. I gather it is the worst they have had for years.

Parking at the shopping centre was brilliant. I literally parked alongside in a parking bay. Nothing to pay or anything, and the clothes shops are Soooo cheap. Got a puffa for €9. Not designer but warm!

Canto Azul is the first restaurant on the front, west to eat at Santa Luzia, and we parked close by. The restaurant is tiny inside. It has 2x tables for 2 and one for 6. Hilarious bearing in mind the conversation re our having the last table. The owners are dutch and specialize in sirloin and fillet dishes. It was a very good meal.


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Cachela Velha

12th february

A lovely little place overlooking a wide beach and the Ria De Formosa Reserve.

Stopped for coffee at the restaurant on the left as you walk into the village. Almost empty at 12.00 and almost full at 13.00. Mostly well,dressed Portugese, the menu was very unusual with a lot of fish stews, octapus etc.

That morning the domestic battery is reading 11.7 so getting better but all a bit odd. I suggest ro JC that we should at least find the batteries and see what they are and how big etc. So get back to the house and i take the panel off the front of the passenger seat. Yep, that is where one is and the other is  under the drivers seat. As I am standing by the passenger door I note that the small rocker switch that is to heat up the water tank in extreme cold is actually in the down/on position. Ah ha. This switch was installed by Highbridge when we bought the van as i was concerned about having a water tank that wasn't insulated. It heats the water enough to stop it freezing and of course only works at cold temperatures, like every night this week! So we must have inadvertently switched it on. It is only now that I check the amps on the control panel and see that 0.1 amps are shown even though everything is turned off. Motorhomes are extraordinary. What is still running and why! Why can't a van be more like a boat.

So, we hook up again and will check tomorrow.

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Olhao

13th February

Our eating habits have changed out here in that we don't seem to want lunch
And supper. So, if we eat out at lunchtime, I will usually go without supper. Excellent for losing some weight for me but JC will probably fade away. Anyway today we are going to Olhao for a walk and lunch.

I have written here about Gybo's liver and health problems but not about her back legs. Our vet says the communication from the spine has suffered and consequently her back legs aren't working properly and she often falters. Yesterday, we noticed she has a limp and the whole movement of her body when walking looks very awkward and painful. I have bought some Metacam (dog painkiller) from England and hope a course of this will help. She is now not up for any walking at all which will seriously compromise our plans.

So Kicker and Jc go off across the flats for a walk when we get to Olhao and Gibby and I fiddle around on the front. The sun is out. There is a cool breeze but it is warm and I take my coat off.

We choose a restaurant on the front (first one from the west)that has tables on the pavement and sitting here in the sun it is gorgeous. Dogs under the table so no worries about the van heating up and the restaurant offers a buffet which I choose. Excellent cold salads with some stuffed filo pastry shapes, and hot fish pie. Jc has a sort of blanquette de porc thing with chips, rice and potatoes which was also very good. The bill including 2 x 7 up was €22. There is a notice by the buffet saying anything leftover on our plates will be weighed and charged. A good idea.

We entertained our neighbours to drinks on Saturday and have been invited over to them this evening. From Brussels, they are very hospitable and well travelled. They tell us about their holiday to Japan which sounded remarkable and different. Apparently in Japan, car GPS's only work to telephone numbers. So, if you want to go to a beach, i wonder how that works. We wobble back to the house in time to catch up on The Halcyon on "Filmon".


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Tavira shopping centre

11th february

If we thought the weather was bad yesterday, it is amazing today. Heavy, pouring rain and dark grey skies all around. It is also cold and we off in search of shops for warm jumpers.

Yesterday, I checked the domestic battery levels as I do periodically and was suprised to see they were down to 11.5. I guess we had used the electric roof a few times but otherwise nothing, and the battery shoukd be being charged by the alternator. So I checked it again today and it is down to 11.1, so now very low. ok, lets see what happens after a longer drive today.

I remember Tavira from our last trip. A very attractive river that straddles the river. So we drive to the road where we managed to park last time but the whole place is deserted, and as it is raining so hard there is no point in getting out of the van.

We decide to to visit the new Shopping Centre on the outskirts. Of course the underground car park entrance isn't high enough for motorhomes, so we all park on very wet scrubland nearby and run across the busy roads getting very wet. After a mooch around here and a good shop in the supermarket we go home. The roads are like rivers.

The domestic battery is now below 11volts and I am thinking back. Because the charger is noisy at
times, i turned it off when we were in the last campsite. Thinking there would not be any electricity
used during the night but of course that was wrong. The fridge was on. Groan. I have inadvertently run the batteries right down and suspect they won't recover. Luckily there is an electric point in the garage next to where we park the van, so plugged it in and will leave that for a while with all fingers and toes crossed.

It is Sunday, and our eating habits have changed out here. We seem to be getting fuller, quicker. All good news to me though as it means I don't want 3 meals a day but JC could just fade away. In the tavira Continente supermarket i have bought a Seabass for €1.90! Looks fresh, a good size and a great price. Jc has the other half of his sirloin in the freezer, so we will swim home and have a lovely late lunch in the house with the fire on.

Before settling down i plugged the van into the garage electric point for the night. It was now reading 10.9 with a warning saying Dangerously Low. Ugh, i think i need to start looking for campervan garages locally.

All going well, fish and chips being baked in the oven, and JC puts his steak in the frying pan. Then the gas runs out! Ahhh. The gas bottle sits in the room next to the kitchen. Would be completely illegal in England (and possibly is in Portugal). There is no ventilation into this room other than around door from the kitchen, so any escaping gases would come into the main living area. Anyway, there is another bottle there but the fitting on top of the existing bottle is a real bugger to get off. We turn to the information book which says the gas may need to be changed and if a real problem to call them out to do it. Um, but who?

As my baked fish is now overbaked and the chips are soggy, we slow up and and phone Adele. Luckily she answers. She explains how to get the fitting off and we finally succeed but getting it onto the new one is also not easy. After 15 mins of wrestling it is installed ad working. Thank God for alcohol.

Moncarapacho

10th february

Gloomy start and not too cold. Off to this village with a famous pottery shop where we managed to spend a few euros. The weather is now atrocious. Continual heavy rain. We decided to take the advice in our information booklet at the house and have lunch at O'Calibri. A very unpretentious Portugese restaurant. It was lovely. There are specialities of beef cooked on hot stone, (which diners around us were recommending) or the 2ft vertical scewer of prawns or monkish. All looked amazing but too much for us at lunchtime. A pork cordon bleu and schnitzel with chips and salad, a pischer of vino, 7 up and a beer was €17. We will definately be going back.

Out into the pouring rain and off to Fuseta beach for another soaking with the pups.

Boatyards and Electrics

9th february

I haven't really described how amazing this location is. In the summer it would be regarded as fabulous. Because it is winter it is difficult to get the right photo, but here is a starter.

Difficult to see but you can see some sand banks in the distance and lagoons in front of them. It is really beautiful.

So JC decides to follow in my footsteps or cycle path!to attempt the ride To Fuseta and sets off around 11.00 with mobile phone in case of pallava. He phones about an hour later to say he is sitting on the beach at Fuseta having a coffee. How irritating. He is fitter than me and on his way to his 81st!

I drive over to Olhao and Faro in the afternoon introducing myself to the local boatyards and leaving my cards.

Back home for turf (jc) and surf(me) supper, of steak and sole. The kitchen equipment is arcaic and the gas oven has no grill, so there is an antiquated Microwave/grill but no instructions and difficult to follow the decals. We decide I will cook my sole in a frying pan and JC will use th mixrowave grill.
It is a cold night and we have 2 x oil radiators on and a fan heater. Jc's grill has been running for 10 minutes but nothing is happening when he checks again and then......click.... the lights go out.

Quite funny really as I am standing by the gas oven with potatoes in one saucepan, beans in another and my lovely fish sauteing away in pitch darkness. We both laugh out loud and i turn off the hobs and find the iphone which has a torch. We look for a circuit board. The only fuse box is in the garage and all looks ok. The information file has 2 x telephone numbers. One is for Alan.
"Hi Alan, My name is Mandy. We are staying at Ceu Azul and the electrics have gone off."
"Can I stop you there." Says Alan. I have not worked for the company for 3 years and have asked them to remove my details."
"Ah, ok thank you." Phone goes down and we sit in darkness for a minute. I phone the other number and there is a Portugese answer machine message.

Looking back at the original booking paperwork, i then phone Adele in England. She answers and Imexplain the problem. She sounds a bit apologetic and explains that the electricity comes from the house next door. Ah, of course. I remember now. If the electricity goes we need to knock up the neighbour. But we know there has been noone living there during our stay.
So Adele then describes how to get in to the house next door. ie where the hidden key is and then into the main bedroom there is a wooden wardrobe and just like the Lion, the Witch and the.... I climb inside and look up under a panel at the side and there is the black button. PUSH. Ahh, feels good. Yes, lights in the house we have broken into are working! Thank you Adele. Perhaps all this should be in the information folder?

Olhao

8th February

I am having trouble posting pics in here, so may have to be a diary without them, and sort it all out when i get home.
Boring though but at least I will have a record.

Today we went to Olhao. Whilst the fishmarket in Fuseta is wonderful, the one here is amazing. And the town is very busy with locals and tourists chilling out on the seafront.

Jc sat in a cafe whilst I did a quick reconnaissance. Bought a large Sole for €3.40 which was pretty good, and some veg for peanuts.

We were trying to find the local boatyard as i wanted to leave my card as i think english boat owners needing an insurance survey would appreciate an english surveyor here. Finally found the boat yard and it was closed. Lunchtime! Ok. Will be back.

We decided to try out the local restaurant. By that I mean the only restaurant for miles. It happens to be a well known fish place and serves every kind of fish you can imagine. I chose garlic prawns and unfortunately JC chose pork Secrets. The latter being a Portugese special but actually eating meat in a fish restaurant is a dodgy idea and the pork was tough. My prawns were good though and I was very pleased with my €7 main course including chips and salad and my 2 x glasses of wine for €1 each.


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Fuseta

7th february

Today is the day I try out the bike we have brought with us. JC looked at it before we left and said it was fine, so I am trusting him. I set off having read that there is a bike ride along the slatpans to Fuseta. Not exactly true, the path follows the reserve for amshort while and then goes off into roads, up hills, down tracks, through villages and I am lost. This combined with the fact that the bike is fine unless yoh use the gears or the brakes, all of which are dodgy. I cycle for a couple of miles and apart from being lost and having to back track, i think about the last time I was on a bike. At least 5 years ago. My god. I am not fit. O I abandon Plan A and make for home while Imstill can. Once back, we all pile into the can and head off to Fuseta.

Spent a week here last time in the local campsite. It is a typical Portugese harbour town with a fabulous fish market daily and everything there is so cheap. It has improved itself with a couple of smart restaurants on the sea front and a snazzy bar on the beach area, which is beautiful anyway.

One of the restaurants by the market has a large barbeque outside and the smells from the fish cooking is delicious. (Or maybe that is because my smell has improved!).


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Out and about

6th February - Fabrica and Cabanas



Hot day with clear blue skies and breakfast on the terrace

A short drive out towards Barril beach which is on one of the large sandbanks off the coast. Accessed
by a bridge and then there is a little train which takes you across the sand bank. Interesting to see numerous motorhomes parked up just along from the walkway. Not sure if its official.



We parked up and walked to the bridge to see ......

But agreed with the thought and carried on. The woman driving the train was very pleasant but said



she couldn't take dogs on the train. It is now very hot and Gybo is panting. A 1.5 k walk there and back would not have been ideal, so we decided to do it another day, and drove on to Fabrica. A gorgeous little village also on the Rio de Formosa Reserve with popular restaurant on the front. (Closed on mondays of course), but definately somewhere to come back to.



Gybo (that one that was on death's door 3 weeks ago) absolutely loved the beach and ran around at full speed in and out of the water.

We drove back via another village also on the edge of the Reserve. Cabanas.

Having driven through the main thoroughfare looking for somewhere to park up we ended up a row back from the beach in a shaded spot. We were planning to leave the dogs inside. But i checked the temperature inside and it was 23.5. Even opening the skylight and windows slightly may not keep that temperature down. So the dogs came to.



Had a great lunch in a sunny spot near the beach, and the calamaries were delicious.

Day 1

5th February - Pinheiro

Woke up to sunshine and a fabulous view across the Rio De Formosa. First, a trip to the supermarket in Olhao to get provisions and then back for lunch on the balcony here. "Ahh, that's why we have come!" Says Jc

It is cloudy with some sun but warm enough. We walk down to the saltpan lagoon a few minutes away, and meet a few of the local dogs and horses. Not particulary successful, but one of Portugal's fine restaurants is located just here. Literally minutes from the house. Excellent.

A lazy afternoon reading and preparing supper and then the pen ultimate episode of Apple Tree Yard. Can't believe it!




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Going for it

4th February - Pinheiro

We have about 250 miles to go, so had chosen an Aires just south of Seville for tonight's stop. So we could afford to be slow in the morning. As usual, most motorhomes had already left by the time we had ventured out. JC noticed a rather shabby Cafeteria sign close by the Aires and we set off there for coffee. Actually it was a Municipal Cafe and once inside very acceptable for breakfast. As usual it was pouring with rain when we left the Aire around 11.00 having plugged in Seville and realised we would be there at 1.30. We looked at each other and thought the same thing. Lets just go for it. The dogs would moan and I would moan but the weather had really put us off motorhoming!

We got to the house at around 4.00 ish having stopped for some wine and milk, knowing that we had another can of cassoulet somewhere for supper and that all the big supermarkets would be open the next day for a big shop.
The access is not ideal for a motorhome. Down a narrow lane with bushes and trees touching the van on both sides. The house forms a corner of the lane and parking is offered in a large garage under the house. But too low for Wishstream 2. So there was a lot of toing and froing to get it off the road. We need to find another way of doing this but that is for tomorrow.

The house is lovely although quite basic. We have just the use of the first floor. I think the owners store stuff underneath. They had put 2 x oil filled radiators in the house for us and both were on when we arrived. They had also put an electric blanket on the bed and this was on low. So very kind and whilst I wouldn't say the house is cosy, the chill I was expecting had been taken off.

The house has wifi and Portugese TV only. So they suggest we register with the "Filmon" website for live UK TV. I had never heard of it but got the app sorted on my ipad and we are away. Amazing, it streams all Uk channels. Can't be legal. But very happy to catch up with Tom Harding in Taboo.


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Going slowly

3rd February - Caseras

Woke up to pouring rain and therefore all the early morning jobs like dog walking, removing the silver screen, folding up the hook up etc all had to be done in the wet. To get dry we decided to have breakfast in the site cafe. 2 x fried eggs and a plate of bacon/ham good value at €6 each.

After which I take my site map to reception to ask where we can fill up with water. The manager draws a circle on my map and I plod off to have a look. Nope, nothing there. Just a building site! So I plod back, now pretty fed up. She shrugs and puts her coat on as she contacts someone on her mobile phone. I follow her to the building site and she disappears through a brick arch and returns with the end of a new, blue hose. The end is bnt back in her hand to stop the water flowing out. She nods at me and I understand I am to bring the van here to this hose. Great!

JC is quite surprised as i pour myself into the van end explain we have to move now to get the water tank filled up. So everything is stuffed in cupboards and we move off towards the building site. I have second thoughts about the while thing really as we never use anyone else's hose but this one does look new.

JC is interested to visit the old 12th century part of Caceras. Had we not been so delayed, we would have planned in a 2 night stop in the Aire in the middle of the town. However, it was only a short (150 mile odd) drive, so we have the afternoon.

The Aire is large and is alongside a coach park. We are no 2 campervan in at around 2.00 ish and walked off in search of the Old Town. Lovely architecure and a fabulous large square surrounded by bars and restaurants. We got back to the van around 4.00 ish and there were another couple of motorhomes in place. Over the following hour another 22 arrived in all sizes and nationalities and fairly soon the place was full. Oddly we were the only van to have a bit of space on both sides, so when a friendly Brit from the lake distric asked us if we could shove up a bit and let them in, we felt like we were in Fiscardo harbour on Kefalonia and did just that.

Dinner in the main square was a disappointment. All too touristy for their own good, and the chef couldn't even get the chips right. But at least we didn't have to cook. The dogs stayed in the van and no complaints when we returned. (From fellow vanners - not the dogs!)




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What are we doing

2nd February, Towards Bejar

Filthy night. Blowing hard and raining. The light on the fridge has started flashing meaning the gas has gone out. Presumably because we have run out? No, the gauge shows a third full. On our last trip, the whole gas thing was my least favourite part. Finding autogas and then filling the tank. The adapter we had never seemed to fit properly and gas squirted out everywhere.

A quick look in the Aires book on the gas page and we identified some likely garages en route. When we arrived it was still blowing hard and pouring with rain, and JC and I were wondering what we were doing. After trying the nozzle in our adaptor, it was clear this wasn't the right adaptor! Helpful garage chap arrived with a box of adaptors and tried 4, none of which worked. Whilst he went off to get help we tried another couple and found one that fitted. God, what a pallava. Filled up and off into the clouds, gale and rain which persisted all day and nearly blew us off the road.

"Have we got an ACSI card each". Jc asks. "No, just the one." The card is like golddust. You have to apply for one each year and it allows you to discounted
prices at member campsites. Usually the rate is capped to €17 a night. Where the usual cost could be nearer €25. Unfortunately, JC used it in Tours and now doesn't have it. Ohhh. Dear! And various other expletives.

Finding the campsite near Bejar is not easy, but after punching in lat. and long. into Tomtom, we get there. It is still pouring and Jc goes into reception with our ACSI book to try and explain that we are members but have lost the card. Success.

A basic site but in a valley and sheltered from the worst of the weather which is raging around us. We plug into mains and as usual use our little tester device to make sure the camp is not negative polarity. Ah, it is. There is lots of stuff on the web on this and some campers think it is a worry, and whilst it is not great, it shouldn't be a problem unless you have dodgy devices which you want to plug into your mains. We ask the site lady about it and she brings her colleague who chats away and shows us the reading on his phone when he plugs in and says it is our van which has the problem.
Yah, fine. Forget it. I won't use my hairdryer though.

Comfy night and for once I slept.





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On and on

1st February, towards Palencia

All slept quite well on king size bed. My Gibby snuggled up close which is very unusual and actually quite nice.

Went to last nights cafe again for brekka, wifi, and french stick, and then off. Tomtom took us south but every 5 mikes there was a toll booth asking for €3 to €5 euros a time. Enough!!

I finally found the off button on the Tomtom relating to toll roads. So no more empty roads and empty purses. We are rolling along nicely while concentrating on a massive Truck ahead and miss the ........turning. Most of the large towns out here all have various Spaghetti junctions at every turn, so we are travelling along a high speed dual carriageway in the wrong direction and then there is a toll booth. Lots os Spanglais, but we have to pay to go through. Round the roundabout and back to the same set of toll booths where i show the ticket chappie the receipt of 1.5 minutes earlier. Shoulders are shrugged and with more euros paid we are travelling back to San Sebastian? Grrrr.

The nice thing about travelling 180 miles on the toll roads is that you know you will drive them in 2 hours, but on the non toll, it can be single carriageway with massive trucks doing 40 for miles. So, It was slow going and we decided to choose an Aire closer than planned in a place called Bandenas. It was ghastly. Water didn't work, no level ground and next to a large shed which seemed to house numerous noisy barking dogs. Which of course set ours off. Jc took the pups off for a walk whilst I investigates further but he returned quickly with the 'not staying here' look and off we went again. Gybo is now really not happy. She doesn't sleep whilst in transit and i think she was knackered.

Decide to go 10 miles odd down the road to the town of Palencia. After a little pallava we found the aire which has absolutely no services but is next door to a supermarket and has a nice place to walk the dogs nearby.

Gybo seems to have regained full strength and absolutely loved the walk, especially the hilly park. She took off and raced around it as if she was a puppy. Great to see.

Temperature has dropped again and i have dug out my hat and gloves for a trip to the supermarket for wine, lasagna and salad. Perfect.

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Freezing and boiling

31st january - towards San Sebastian

Local baker open for french stick and having been 'wild camping'. (No services at all, so no hook up to electrics etc), there was not much to do. The van is so like a boat really as i have always said. There is quite a lot of pallava when mooring up and the less stuff you have have to do the quicker you can leave. We didn't even need the flippers in (the big yellow leveller thingies that you can put under the tyres) last night, so a quick bite of brekka and away.

We are fed up with driving and realise how leisurely we took our previous trip 5 years ago. Sometimes only driving 75 odd miles in a day, compared to 300 odd this week. Yes, it would be good to get some better weather, but it is still a holiday.

Sun came out for much of our shortish trip today. Approx 200 miles, and it really warmed up this afternoon. I have just found a temperature guage on the van. At 4.30 this afternoon it was 17 degrees outside. Marvellous, and 24 degrees inside. Panting!

We have rather stupidly arrived at the same boring aire we used in San Sebastian last time. No good walking and no views. Also, i think we are a bit naive about our water usage, as the tank was completely empty when i tried making tea this afternnoon. The aire has a meter for parking here. €3.25 per day. Pretty cheap and the water is free. So jc takes the dogs out to find a park and I move the van round to the water tap. It is like the showers you find in the campsites. You have to keep pushing it in to get water out. God, filling the tank will take ages. No worries, what else have I to do?
By the time I got back to my parking space a 7 meter Coral SP was reversing into it. My Spanglais is just as good as ever I find, and soon they were moving out.

Went to local bar for drink and wifi. JC very happy as 2x bieres and 2 x Verdeho €6.


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Towards Bordeaux

30th January

Woke to pouring rain at about 8.30. The other couple of motorhomers had already left. Our first priority was a Supermarket so after handling the domestics of water fill up, loo empty etc. We set off in search. France is amazing. The infrastructure must have cost a fortune. In seconds out of a village you are on a dual carriageway or a large roundabout with signs pointing all ways and actually we are lost. On the horizon i spy a Le Clerk sign which turns out to be a glorious hypermarket. I am in heaven. If we hadn't had to get on the road, i could have spent hours there buying clothes, shoes, new dinner service, and OMG I had forgotten the fish counters in France. Beautiful. A sole for me and Jc will be eating pork with camembert. I think we can roast that - maybe!

So very late setting off, and spent the day driving through solid rain to an Aires north of Bordeaux. At the same time trying to avoid the big motorways with peage. We were reasonably successful but the non peage roads are much busier and whilst driving along at about 65mph minding our own business, a VW van pulled in front and ping, a stone jumped up and chipped the windscreen, just in my line of sight. How unlucky! No idea what rules there are here but in Uk I think you have to get it replaced. So we wait till we get back on that one and fingers crossed it is not too deep.

The Aire is in a small village just off the N10. It is right by a lake and there is space for about 5 motorhomes. We were the only one there. Parked up and walked into the village. The Hotel de Ville looked very run down on the outside with paint peeling off everywhere but looking rough the windows tables were set up and just maybe we could get something to eat here later. The sign on the door in French intimates it would open at 6.00. Otherwise there was a bar and a pizza restaurant which looked good. I walked back later to find the hotel is only doing lunches and the pizza place js closed on monday. So chez Wishstream tonight with sole and pork. Umm.

We are planning to go to Porto to call in on one of my surveyor friends who has just moved there. He texted to say there is a massive low travelling across from the Atlantic towards Uk and France and Porto will catch the bottom of it. So we need to decide whether we will give Porto a miss this time. We are very delayed already as the house we have booked in the Ria De Formosa is from saturday 4th Feb, and we will not make it by then if we detour to Porto. Too tired to think about it now as the bed needs to be made up and because of last night we will keep the arrangement as 2 singles.

Of course, it is colder than planned and both dogs wanted to come up on the beds so another hopeless night, coupled with Jc reorganising his berth at around 2.00am to try and accommodate Kicker better. Bloody dogs.tomorrow night the full double will be made up and everyone can sleep where they like.


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Tours

29th January, Tours

Getting warmer.

Fast drive down autoroute to Tours, but shocked to pay €55 peage. That and the fact that we spent €75 on fuel for the day makes it expensive travelling. Found the only campsite near Tours which is open all year. In fact the only one open for miles. Hot shower, and an omelette with some Sainbury's ham and some slices Gouda we bought at the fuel station. I hadn't really thought much about the fact that supermarkets would be closed on Sunday, but luckily JC had taken coals to Newcastle and packed three bottles of vino. So we are ok there.

Seems to be warmer but not taking any chances with sleeping arrangements.
The two single seAts are pretty easy to make up into a large double if you can persuade dogs and husband to take a walk for 5 minutes. We then all snuggled up cosily with oil radiator on half. Quite surprised when Gybo jumped off around 4.am and took to her own bed though. Sooo contrary.

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