Thursday, March 23, 2017

Mountain rally to Camping Capobino

19th March

Away in good time to a campsite near Marbella. We have decided to take the coastal route which whilst longer has a much larger choice of Aires and camp sites along its route compared to going via Granada. And the latter includes a lot of gear changing. Jc's cold still awful but he says he is sure he will feel better tomorrow.

Talking of gear changing, we take the route through Ronda and it is not until i look at it on a large map I see there are many wiggly lines. This means precipice, mountains, up, down, hot brakes and tempers. And sure enough all the way from Ronda to St Pedro that's what it was.

We arrived at the lat. and long. that i had put into the Tom tom. She said yoh have arrived at your destination. A roundabout in a backstreet of St Pedro. I don't think so. I ask jc to read out the lAt. and long. To me and sure enough i had got it wrong and we are 17 miles from our destination. Luckily this was on the flat!

Arriving at Camping Cabopino is a bit like arriving at Butlins. The receptionist is very helful in pointing out the facilities, restaurants, indoor pool, archery, dog walking area, blah, blah. I say we are ACSI members and he asks me for our card. I give him our ACSI book and show him where the card was before we tore it out and now we haven't got it. He asked me if it was stolen and i nodded thinking that this was a good idea. So we get the site for €19 instead of €25 i think. We are then sent off to drive around the enormous site with a list of vacant pitches. And there aren't many. This is a very popular place. Over the next 2 days we come across all nationalities and many who live there for the winter. Their pitches are like home with little fences Nd flower beds. And then there are the groups of friends who all get together in one awning around 16.00 hours for a nibble and a drink. Usually 8 to 12. I expect they have been coming here for years. There is also a number of campers who arrive in their enormous motorhome and add a double sized tent with proper windows and then the awning comes off that. The square footage is bigger than our house. I wonder if they will bring a jacussi next year.

All good. Jc's cold and cough is finally settling down and i have been doing some long overdue exercise in the swimming pool. This is covered with plastic sections and the temperature inside the bubble is 45 degrees with humidity of 38. I did wonder if i would be able to breathe, especially as i seemed to be the only person in the whole campsite using the pool. But it was bliss.

I wanted to watch Broadchurch and went to enquire as to wifi. "It is supplied by an outside company and there are lots of technical hitches". I am told. And so it was. I could never get it to work. So I know pair it with my phone where i have some free data every month. Marvellous. Watched the hour long programme and learnt that an hour takes 400 mb of data so I now have nothing left on my phone, which we use for navigation, emails etc. Groan!

We are leaving on wednesday 22nd march so decide to eat out at the nice looking Italian restaurant next to the campsite, on our last night. Ah, it is closed on Tuesdays but the bar/cafe restaurant at the club is open. So we wander along there at 7.30 to find it heaving with mostly english.

To cut a long story short, the English in that restaurant let the side down. It was a big group and very noisy and after continual swearing, (even more than I can bear) I leant back in my chair and said something. When the answer was something like "what did you say" . Jc got ready to get out of his chair. My hero! The rest of the group then got involved and started laughing about it. Eventually I got an apology and interestingly one of the other young english guys eating there came over and asked me if I was alright. And said that they should be respectful. It was very kind of him.

Anyway we are leaving tomorrow.

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Beautiful

18th March
Parking in Alcoutim hsn't been that easy although we have always managed to find a place fairly nearby, but today I want to bring the van up the side road to the house. It is vey narrow and there are so many cars around today. The town is preparing for its first "smugglers festival" next week and there are various trucks and vans setting things up.

We discuss loading the van where it is which is down the hill, a good minutes walk away. No problem normally but we have quite a lot of stuff to carry. I take the plunge and drive it up the adjacent cobbled street parking on the no parking yellow lines as close to the wall as possible. Cars can just squeeze by, and we hurriedly load and stow all the gear.

And then its everyone in and away reversing slowly back down the hill. The sun is out and the sky is blue. What more do we want. It is boiling.
The trip to Fabrica included a visit to the Peuce Deuce supermarket to get my pups some fresh chicken. For the most spoilt dogs on earth I think I hear. But my Gibby is not that well and has started not eating so a sprinkling of boiled chicken breast spices things up a bit.

We arrive at Fabrica and as we arrive we discuss the fact that we have never been here on a Saturday. Mamma mia. It is absolutely packed with motorhomes and cars, and the only restaurant is full. We take the last space and I take the pups out into the beach. It is low tide and i digure we can wade out to the outer beach area through the shallow lagoon water. So off i stride with Kicker by my side. He gets to water touching tummy level and stops. I turn to see that Gybo has also stopped although shallower as her tummy touching tummy level is earlier having shorter legs. No amount of calling would shift them, so we went for a walk along the beach instead. Whatever, it is still beautiful.

When some of the diners drove off we were able to get a place backing onto the lagoon, and i thought this would be it for the night. However, chatting to a chap from Whitby he said the official Aire was to East of the steps, and we shouldn't really park on the West side. Of course the East side was full.

Having washed dogs feet and my feet and my shoes, a camper moved out from the East and we moved to our final position.

Although i couldn't find any info anywhere saying this was an official Aire anyway.

We had decided to eat at the restaurant tonight. The dogs are usually pretty quiet in the van and we are close enough to come back and check

Very good food but you pay for it. I had sole and JC had a beef stew. He says it was an early Birthday as we don't know where we will be next saturday.


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Packing up again

17th March
Very sorry to be leaving this lovely house but we need to get home now, albeit slowly. We have changed our minds so many times about the route, i can't remember what the latest decision was, but before we go I want to spend our last night in what is now my favourite place here. Fabrica beach.
So that will be our destination tomorrow.

Jc's cold is really bad now, so quite pleased that we will only be driving for 45 mins odd and he can have a sleep during the afternoon. Just hope i don't get it.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Friday, March 17, 2017

Sick Bunny

16th March

JC has the cold that Mike and Eve had on Saturday and is rather poorly. Weather poorly too and we discussed going over on the ferry to Sanluca to the beach bar there for lunch which does good tapas.
JC rises to the occasion and Gybo and Kicker get on the ferry ok, but. ....... The tide is well down and the pontoon on the other side is accessed by concrete steps at the top and then steel steps for the lower third. There is little to get a grip on as it is made up of holes basically, and whist Kicker eventually races up the top. Gybo isn't going to go. Luckily she is not heavy.

A very cold (relatively speaking) and dull day.With a rather cold and dull reception at the bar restaurant. I go in on my own and ask the owner if he speaks English. He shakes his head as a voice from the bar in a Yorkshire accent says " We do though, what do you want?" they are customers and presumably local ex pats.  The restaurant is basic with plastic chairs and tables, there is no one in there. " Wondered if the dogs could come in whilst we had some lunch"/ She answered."Dogs aren't allowed inside. You can eat outside over there if you want." I looked over to the even more unwelcoming area of plastic chairs and tables set in a rickety fashion  under some plastic sheeting.

I left and we went back to the ferry and had lunch at home. Smoked meats, cheese, olives, and papaya to finish. Delicious.

Cold

14th March

It is very noticeable when it is not really warm outside. I think we expect it now and when it doesn't happen it is disappointing.

Simon left after a hearty granola and strawberries brekka and we settled down to a mooching about day. Dog walking and thinking about the next stop after here. JC gets all the maps from the van and we pore over them discussing many options. All depend on the weather really. And we have no idea about that.

Simon sees some sights

12th March,

We decide to take Simon down to the Ria De Formosa to our now favourite beach Fabrica. It is Monday and the restaurant on the beach there is closed, but the beach is still looking absolutely stunning and the tide is well out. Gybo is in her element racing around and Simon is taking loads of pics on his iPhone. He walks on and says he will meet us back at the beach bar and we go back with the dogs to dry out and get a coffee. Some time later we are getting worried and there is no sign of him. I call him. No answer. A few minutes later he phones to say he is fine. There have been some armed police around and he has found his way into a rather grand bar/sunbathing platform. Although the bar is closed.
We think this must be part of the Golf club just down the coast. How did he get there!? After some more calls and a lot of us sitting around, he comes back. I am rather grumpy now as we set off to find a tapas lunch.

After trying to the fabulous place at Prai Verde which was closed, we end up at a place on Monte Gordo beach which I seem to remember we visited 5 years ago. Lunch was less resplendent than yesterday's but we had planned a cook up supper. Left over lamb curry.  And it was delicious.

Foz de Odeite

12th March

Other than teetotal Paul, I think we all feel a bit weary this morning. But coffee on the terrace and a coffee in the bar on the front seems to have done the trip. Paul's girlfriend is Portugese so she books a table at Fox about 30 minutes down the Guardiana. We go with Simon in his flash A6  hire car and find somewhere en route for a run with the pups. The guardiana is such a great river. There are orange and olive groves all along this length and I understand there are vines further up.

Of course, when we get to the restaurant they say no dogs allowed inside and the outside terrace is very narrow. Eventually we agree to take 2 tables and actually as the sun is out and is it warm it would have been a shame to be inside. Simon suggests we rearrange the tables so that we can all sit together and some friendly banter ensues between him and Paul, for what seems to go on forever and ever. Finally we settle down to a great meal with some vino and the sun is out and it is just what we came out here for.

Party Time

11th March

Simon is arriving lunch time, so I have time to go and check out the Alcoutim market and look for some more fresh meat to go with the lamb which was enough for 5 and might not be enough for 7. JC says it fine, but that's because I threatened to get a chicken as well.

The market is held in a part of a small building. Just fresh fruit, veg, nuts and olives and a crate full of fresh herbs. There is a small meat van outside with a large queue of multinationals leaning against the wall and looking quite miserable. They know they are in for a long wait bearing in mind none of this food is prepackaged so in true Portugese style every order is jointed, or cut and trimmed to order. And the Portugese women in the queue will be buying their meat for the week.

I go into the building and buy some more tomatoes and some grapes which will be added to the strawberries for dessert as well as a Papaya. There is one man in charge so again there is quite a queue to buy these items and we all wait patiently. He doesn't speak English but French, so we communicate in Franglais and I explain I want a small bunch of coriander, parsley and mint. How much? Une Cadeaux? Lovely Man.

Outside the queue hasn't moved but I spy half a leg of lamb in the so called truck window, so join the leaning brigade to wait.

Simon arrives on time and we chill out on the balcony catching up and then Paul arrives with new girlfriend, and at 6.30 Mike and Eve arrive. The oven has its own little way, but a good roast lamb dinner is served around 8.00 and we all get in the party mood. Mike and Eve were in advertising, and have a Westerly Konsort, Simon has his own advertising agency, Paul has a Westerly Falcon and I have a Westerly Fulmar. (Doesn't mean anything? They are boats!). another of life's coincidences..

 

Thursday, March 16, 2017

Small World

10th March

Absolutely boiling hot day.
Tomorrow is Saturday and a friend, who I used to work for some years ago, is coming out to stay for a couple of days. Also a Yacht Surveyor friend is threatening to bring his Westerly Falcon up the Guardiana to visit us. So it looks like we will have a little party tomorrow night. But that means another drive down to the supermarket. So down to Castro Marim with dogs and look for parking place in the shade.

We have agreed we will cook something we recognise! But won't be chicken, as JC hates chicken. The problem is that all the other joints of other animals are not similar to those in England. However, I do recognise a leg of lamb. It is very expensive and our lovely engilsh speaking butcher is doing another job in the cold room.  With a bit of Ponglais we agree with the butcher that he will cut a bit off. Oops that is too much, could we have that other bit there then. Yep, now got a whole leg in 2 halves. That's more than enough.

As we walk towards the wine area, I hear an English voice which I seem to recognise. It is the couple we met at Fabrica who have a house near here. Hello! Get chatting and after a while they invite us back to their house if we don't have anything else to do. I explain that provided we can get the fridge fired up and the lamb in it, we would love to come.

We duly follow them slowly out of Castro Marim and out onto a well made up narrow road. Up hill down dale, we are really out in the country now. We arrive at their house in a tiny village near Beliche of 5 properties. Theirs is actually 2 small houses. One houses the sitting room, bathroom and kitchen. It is tiny, and the other has a double bedroom with a smaller bedroom behind it. We are now on name terms, and Mike and Eve have put their own water tank system in and their own modern cesspit.

The views out here are amazing and whilst the houses are great, living here in this way permanently would not be my cup of tea. It is just too isolated long term. But they brought up their 2 children here and have carried out much of the building works themselves. Respect!

We have a welcome beer and sandwich whilst Mike tries to explain where we are and how to get back to the main road. It is finally agreed they will take us half way as they are going to the river to let Digby, their pointer/lab cross, a swim and ours could do with one too.

Leaving the river with 2 x soggy dogs we realise we now have 7 for dinner tomorrow night having just invited Mike and Eve. Ah, do we have enough lamb? There is a market at Alcoutim on Saturday mornings. I have no idea what happens there but I shall go along and see what I can get to add to the evening's menu.

Out to supper at O Camane in the square here. Disappointing. JC's steak was of Ugg boot consistency and my squid in breadcrumbs was rather tasteless.

To Spain, for an hour

9th March

27 degrees C today.
Small  catarmarans have been fitted out as little water taxis on the pontoons here run by 'River Fun', who also run the laundry in Alcoutim! Because it is such a hot day, JC and I have decided to give the dogs a break and leave them inside. However, they will howl and upset the neighbours if left for too long, so we decide to each take a little outing to Spain on our own. That is, across the river to Sanluca de Guardiana which is a clean, good looking village on the opposite bank. In Spain. At night it looks lovely.




JC goes first and comes back to report there is no one there, nothing is open except for one café and it is all rather odd.

I have a similar experience and have a coffee at the same bar that he found, but nothing else is going on. The people living there are keeping a low profile or are absent. I guess it must liven up in the summer.

Admin

8th March

JC is a Director of our little development back home and I am Secretary of the local Sailing Club. Since being away there has been much activity on both fronts, and today we need to catch up with stuff, so rather a boring day although sitting on the terrace overlooking the grand, and magnicificent Guardiana with my Ipad is a lot better than being in cold and wet England. So all in all not a bad day at all.

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Tuesday is Fish day

7th March,

Boiling hot day.
Today is fish day. I think that means that fish is delivered by van to Alcoutim. Anyway, the little bar restaurant below us on the terrace overlooking the river does fish only on Tuesdays and meat only on every other day of the week. Christian says it is very good and very poplular. I go in early to try and find out what is on offer as JC doesn't eat fish. But now eats Salmon and prawns. Nope - they are not on.
He says he will try Tuna, so we bypass breakfast and arrive on the terrace at 12.30 as Christian has advised, and we get the last table. The dogs are not happy but we are so close to the house we can nip back and check on them every half hour. The English lady at the table behind me is smoking and the smoke is blowing into us, so being a bolshy, asthmatic, non smoker living with a smoker I ask her to move slightly which she does.

Great lunch. We order mackerel for JC and Tuna in case that doesn't work for him. They bring 5 small mackerel to the table and one huge tuna fillet all charcoal grilled and delicious, with salad and chips and pitchou of vino for E1. Total bill about E20.

Whilst eating, an English guy came up and started talking to some people at one of the other tables. He had a blue and white Gill fleece jacket on. Exactly the same as mine. So as he walked past I said hello and we had a bit of a larf re the jacket etc and got talking. He is a Solicitor with a firm in Plymouth. Has bought a house in Alcoutim and got his boat delivered out here by a cowboy (his words) delivery guy. He eventually got the table next to us when the first sitting finished. What a nice life. His sons are running the day to day of the business and he gets to spend every other month out here!

Provisioning

6th March

Right, its down the IC27 again to Castro Marim and a large shop is in order. It is boiling hot today. The warmest day of the whole trip so the van will be hot. Why didn't we get a van with air conditioning. Good question, but too complicated to answer. So we just have to open the windows like we did in the old days. We will be fine, but not so sure about my pups.

Out of Alcoutim and at the junction we turn left. A few miles later when we have done a few up hills, down dales, I ask JC if this is the quickest way. He looks on the map and says he doesn't know. We stop and look on the iPhone and it appears we are on the old road. Ugh, why is everything always going wrong on this trip. Ok so how far till we get on the motorway. We can see it on the iPhone. Not far then. Off we set and soon we are motoring under the great IC27. There is no way onto it!

After some grumpiness and words, we eventually join the road. Arrive in Castro Marim and park in the shade of a building and the pups are ok in there for a while

We find the highly recommended supermarket which is as good as we have been told. Even the butcher speaks English. The Portugese way is completely different to ours. The butchers attend to each customer's wishes, either slicing or cubing the meat, or if a chicken is bought, it is chopped into many pieces. Not jointed, simply chopped. So, you know you have a long wait at the butchers counter and it is very helpful if the butcher speaks English. I buy chicken fillets, lamb steaks, pork chops, burgers and steak. All beautifully prepared. Good, we are set up for a while.

The journey back went without mishap and actually doesn't take that long. It is only 30 odd clicks anyway. However, parking near to the house mid afternoon on a Monday was not that easy. We had 3 heavy bags and a fourth full of wine. Plus 2 dogs which so far cannot be left in the house without barking the roof off. JC takes the dogs and one heavy bag and I drive into a tiny space and carry 2 of the other bags up to the house, whilst JC comes back to pick up the other one. So minimum roof off barking time. What a palaver.

I drive the van over the small bridge which crosses the tributary leading into the Guardiana where there is some parking under plastic sheeting which offers cars good shade. I wonder if the van will fit under. I swing in and whilst the engine is running leap out and look at the gap above the lifting hatch. Loads of room. At least a foot I estimate, so back into driving seat and slowly manoevre forward. There is a scratching noise. Out again and I can see that the aerial is bent back and rubbing along the plastic. Ah, I hope it will be ok when I come out again which I do and decide to park in the large car park behind which is already full of motorhomes. No idea how these large ones have got in there though. As I swing in I obviously haven't taken a wide enough turn and can see that I am literally mm's away from the concrete wall which stops large vehicles from entering. Anyway, all ends ok, and I park up. Jump up onto the wheel arch and bend the aerial back towards the roof. So we are now set for another day.

 

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Mooching About

5th March

All the shops are closed today, but all the cafes and restaurants and bars are open and the village is humming. Went into the River Café where all the sailors hang out I was told. Julian, the bar man is English and sailed into Alcoutim 2 years ago in his old Westerly Conway with very small children and in his words "sort of got stuck here!" The children are now at school in Sanlucar so they are even more stuck. Julian explained that he moors out in the river somewhere and occasionally on one of the pontoons at either Sanlucar or Alcoutim for a while until asked to move on and then back on anchor in the river. What a different life those children must have!

Last night was very comfy and cosy and we are fully refreshed.

Cloudy but warm and spent the day wandering about and exploring the village. However, we realized that we need to go somewhere and do a full shop tomorrow. This does not make me happy as we seem to go wrong these days whenever we venture out. However, we have got directions from Christian to a new and good supermarket in Castro Marim. Not as far as Vila Real, but nearly! 

Off

4th March,

Gales and pouring rain woke us through the night and we were pleased that most of the packing had been done. After a quick whistle round the house in the morning, we set off stopping on the way to deliver the translated dog letter into what was hopefully the house postbox. The dog was barking like mad and pulling on his chain. So sad. Thank god I don't have to pass him again.

Rain stopped and the sun came out as we gently meandered along the E125 which is in exactly the same condition as 5 years ago. Terrible with potholes and lumpy, rubbly bits en route. We arrived in Vila Real de San Antonio and possible missed the turning. Soon we were driving down the backstreets with our hearts in our mouth that the road didn't get any narrower. Finally we arrived at the river. The great Guardiana which separates Spain from Portugal.  We then turned north and passed the very busy Aire we stayed in 5 years ago and out onto the open road to Alcoutim. As we drove out of Vila Real, JC said. "I think my priority is now fuel". Ah, we had forgotten to get any and were down to 1/4 tank. The new IC27 is impressive. Black, smooth tarmac, with beautiful mountainous scenery, and an enormous dam which has created a massive lake. However, there are no buildings, or houses en route and no signs of any garages.

JC gets out the iPhone and types in Petrol. Six icons appear all on the South Coast, the nearest being Vila Real. We are now 20 miles from there. It seems we have blown it. Out comes the TomTom. there is a garage button on there and would you believe it is saying there is a petrol station 2 kilometres from our location. NO, can't be true! Checked again. Yep. So within minutes we had arrived at the sweetest place with a little hut on the side that said. Closed 13.00 - 15.00. It was 13.15!

Back onto the IC27 but clog is down and driving fast. We find the petrol stall (which is all it is) next to the Aire we passed an hour ago and fill up. whilst JC is doing that I am wondering about shopping. The place we are going to is a small village. Its Saturday and whilst there might be something open today we may miss it by the time we get there (if we ever do)

Polly (the house owner) has gone back to England for a couple of weeks and given me her partners no. I phone him. "Oh, Polly normally tells people. There are a few shops but limited opening hours and no fresh meat or fish." I am beginning to feel uneasy. " OK, is there any heating in the house."
"Yes, woodburner and electic oil rads in the bedrooms".
We know it is a big house and I wonder whether it will be warm enough. Having spent a month in a damp, cold house, I was hoping to get warm for a change. Christian told us where the nearest supermarket was to where we were and JC announced it was lunchtime. So lunch was taken in the Intermarche car park. Very nice too Fresh bread, cold meats and cheese.

Suitably stocked up, we drive back up the IC27 again and opt for the pretty route via Foz which is the way we went 5 years ago. Although I don't think we ever went in to Alcoutim. Found the road and parked up. We knew there would be no parking outside the house, so no problem other than some very steep steps up to the cobbled street which led to the house.

The house is absolutely amazing. Polly and Christian took 7 years to build it, originally to live in, but they now have 2 x daughters, chickens and goats and live on the Spanish side of the river where they have a small house with land. The house would not really work for them now as it is in the centre of town. Which is why they let it out. It is cleverly thought out design wise, And immactulately fitted out with heavy Portugese floor tiles, and visible wooden supports etc. Also the furniture and equipment for a rental property is excellent. We are over the moon.

the house comprises 3 x double bedrooms with 2 bathrooms. A big open kitchen diner with wood burner and a small lounge area. There is a patio on the ground floor with a view of the river straight ahead.

And a patio on the upper floor which has 180 views up and down the Guardiana.Beautiful.

 


The only problem is of course dog walking. We are in the middle of a village, so will have to take them somewhere and there are not many areas to go locally.

Tonight we don't care about that. JC fires up the wood burner and pours a couple of G and T's and I am the warmest I have been for a month.
 



 

Friday, March 3, 2017

Packing

3rd March

We are packing today, and leaving for Alcoutim tomorrow. We wake to pouring rain and a gale. Extraordinary when you think about the weather yesterday.

We cleaned the van inside and out over the last couple of days. The top of it was filthy from the Sahara dust that had settled some weeks ago, so we ran the garden hose up the strep, through the house, and out of our bedroom window below which the van was parked. Worked a treat.

Whilst the weather has been changeable and the house basic, we have really enjoyed our stay here. Ideal to have a garden where the dogs can be let out and wee when they want. Bliss in fact. And whilst the local beach is not really a beach, we have all had our fair share of excitement and exercise over the weeks. I can image a stay here in warmer weather would be heaven.

So, on to another house in Alcoutim. I must have discussed heaters with the owners but can't find any emails about it so a bit of a worry. We have noted that the forecast in Alcoutim is warm during the days but much colder at night as it is higher up. A shame as this coastal area is now warming up at night and it is very comfortable in the house without having to light the fire. if the Alcoutim house hasn't been lived in for a while it is likely to be cold and that will make both of us very grumpy.

Just Local Life

2nd March

We thought the market at Fuseta would be easy for us as there is an enormous parking area near the beach where all the motorhomes park. Wrong! This is where they have the market, so all motorhomes have to move off somewhere else and the town was packed to bursting. It is blue skies, but a cold wind, and if we are to leave the pups in the van, I will need to find some shade. But can't so they must come too. I don't think the dogs like markets. They are almost trampled on by the crowds milling around the stands and of course Kicker likes to cock his leg on anything vertical. So, is continually being told No and pulled away.

We ended up taking it in turns. JC took the dogs onto the beach for a run and I met him at the café there a while later when it was his turn to mooch. He arrived back at the van later with a new pair of leather boots which he claims are waterproof! Good.

There is a very attractive restaurant close to the river that runs up the side of the town. It is basically using a tiny open area alongside the public toilets which happens to be opposite the restaurant. They have put plastic chairs and tables up, with large umbrellas and a big screen in front of the toilets. A 10ft barbeque cooks all the food and a large fridge shows the customer what is on offer. It is incredibly popular and I have always said to JC that I would like to eat there. But it doesn't look like it sells anything other than fish.

JC returns with his new boots saying that the fish restaurant is doing very well and should we try and get a table. We are leaving on Saturday in 2 days time and this is our last chance. We have to take the dogs though so on arrival see a table for 2 which is free, but just as we are about to sit down a lady with apron explains she has people waiting. On the other side of the road outside the main restaurant door there are 5 people. We join the queue even though one of the English women wants to tell me off for taking the table. Deep breaths!



After about 5 minutes we are ushered to a table for 2 in the sun. Which is fine. the wind is cool enough and actually it is lovely to sit in the sun. A waiter brings olives, bread and a tomato and onion salad within about a minute of sitting down. It then takes about another 15 minutes to trip someone up to take our drinks order and another half an hour before persuading someone to write down what fish we want. I am taken to the now very empty fridge and order a sole for me and (more ) prawns for JC, with chips. Another half hour and the food arrives. I have to admit it is the best sole I have had. Large, meaty, and brilliantly cooked. JC moaned about his prawns and I peeled them all for him quickly but had to wait ages to get any knapkins from a waiter. The place was absolutely heaving. At one point a sax player started up on the pavement adding to the atmosphere.

So despite the view of the ladies loo from my chair, the long wait, the endless asking for knapkins, and the very restless dogs under the table trying to get shade, it was a great lunch for E37.

My hair was last cut at the beginning of December so now looking like a wild woman and in desperate need of finding a hairdresser. Rachael the housekeeper was no help. She said she never has her hair cut! But there may be a hairdresser above the petfood shop at Fuseta. Asked around at the café there and was told she had moved into the town but gave me her number. I called and she explained that she couldn't speak English. We managed to communicate and she couldn't fit me in till next week.

This afternoon I am going into Olhao to pick up the Hepatic food for Gibby Gybo, the food that is more expensive than Lobster! but she is my best girl so what will be ........
Found the vets and all sorted and I had looked online for hairdressers in Olhao and there was one on the main street, so parked at the Algarve outlet which I knew and wandered along there. Hairlines is  very cool. The hairdressers are very young and good looking and casually dressed. The main man is wearing a woolly hat and may not have any hair. Anyway, their Clients all looked young and smart so hopefully ok. The only person not involved with a client was a young girl sweeping the floor. She came to the reception desk and said she spoke a little English. Great. Could someone cut my hair today. She smiled. Yes, Me.
Ah, Ok are you a Senior Stylist.? She nodded. So, I asked if I could use the loo, and when I came out she explained she had to dry someone's hair and then could cut mine. About 20 minutes she said.
Ok, fine, but what is a senior stylist doing drying another stylists' clients hair.

All was revealed later when she had been working on the back of my head for some time and called over the guy in the wooley hat. He gave her some tips and gave me the thumbs up. Groan.... I have got the trainee. Anyway after about an hour and a half, and a few visits from Wooley Hat man we were pretty much done. The bits over my ears were sticking out but otherwise it was ok. I explained this to Wooley and he nodded and rather than take the scissors and sort it, he held the hair that he thought should be trimmed and made her do it. Actually it was a good experience in the end. And a good cut.

Beach walk

1st March

I have been watching the tide tables so that we can perhaps do a walk out across the lagoon to the beach at Vela Cachela. Today low tide is 10.30 so we plan to go today. Unfortunatley we have got into very bad habits here. Getting up even later than normal, so didn't set off until 10.15 ish, but the tide was well out when we arrived. A beautiful day, and we are wearing shorts for the occasion.
JC has only leather shoes (why? because! that's why) so will take them and his socks off, and I have my fantastic Asics Goretex hiking shoes which I can just get wet or whatever.




 
 
We head off across the hard sand which becomes soft sand as we get to the edge of the first lagoon and JC takes his shoes and socks off and starts walking across. It is about a foot deep. Kicker adores JC and faithfully follows him out until the water reaches the place where his manhood should be (but now isn't) and stops. JC has now reached the other side and is egging him on, but Kicker is just not having it. He starts barking, and I am trying to persuade Gybo with even shorter legs to cross. NOPE
They are just not going. I suggest that I will walk back to the beginning of the beach area and try and find a route going East and JC will meet us there. I am not that happy about this wading business, bearing in mind it is now 11.30 and the tide is on the flood. Kicker reluctantly joins Gybo and I and we traipse through puddles and cross riverlets (mostly with me having to lift Gybo up onto rocks) and finally we are stuck. No way across. I wave at JC who is now miles away. He is not looking. I wait, and wait and wait. He is stoically striking out for the East side of the beach. Not interested in where we are or how we are. He is just going to go there.

We walk back to the edge of the lagoon where we split up and can see him marching across the sands in the distance. As his interpretation of my suggestion that we should go to Tesco is translated into him buying some Pesto, I don't bother to shout. But it is becoming quite irritating.

I notice that a young guy has started across a green sandbank that previously had looked rather difficult and unenticing, but if he can do it. We can. We wade across about 6 inches of water and both dogs are happy with that and then stride out across the sandbank, at least moving in the same direction as my husband who is getting smaller and smaller.


When our paths finally meet, there are some words so JC says he is going to find a café, and we all retrace my route back in silence. On the beach, it is agreed we will walk to Fabrica which is only just along from Vila Nova.


It is now boiling hot and the dogs are in and out of the water as we walk along. A coffee at our usual bar on the front at Fabrica and we meet a couple from Devon who bought a house out here near Castro Marim in 1990. They lived here full time for a while bringing up their children and running an advertising company. It is great to hear about people who completely change their lives to do something like that. They have returned home because of children's schooling and parents health, but still have the house for holidays.

I bought some large, raw frozen prawns the other day and they are still in the freezer. Prawns are not caught locally, but people always associate them with Portugal and Spain so assume they are. JC doesn't eat fish as he has an allergy but he can eat prawns. That said, he makes a fuss about peeling them. So, I patiently peel each one and remove the tiny vein which runs down the back. Then cook them in oil, with some butter, garlic and masses of parsley. JC said they were delicious but not enough. Good news!
 

Estoi

28th February,

Very cloudy day, so away to Estoi where the palace was built in the late C19 and has been completely refurbished and is now a luxury hotel. The gardens are beautiful. Also the Roman Villa of Milreu site is locatednearby and when we arrived to visit, as usual they were closed for lunch. So, we eventually parked in a side street a short walk away from the Palace. Cloudy day, so pups alright in the van for a while. The palace is amazing and the photos I took do not do it justice. A very clourdy day combined with my lack of knowledge of the new camera has not helped.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Whilst standing overlooking this feature we heard a dog barking in the background over the top of the houses. God, that sounds like Kicker. We look at each other. Could it be? The sound is coming from the right direction. That dog is a nightmare. We head back at a trot and arrive at the van to find him completely quiet. Not convinced but they join us for lunch at a local bar. Just a sandwich as we plan to eat out tonight.

Back to Fuseta beach to give the pups a run and out to Santa Luzia later on that evening  to find a restaurant. The information book at the house suggests Casa Polvo for Tapas at the east end of the town. We'll try there. On arrival at the front where most of the restaurants open up onto to the road, it was clear there wasn't much open, which was a surprise as there was nowhere for a 6m van to park. We headed back out of town to some larger than usual parking places but after a couple of abortive efforts gave up there and drove back into town to look for somewhere else. This is when the dogs start getting agitated and Kicker kicks off barking and jumping around at the back of the van. I decide to reverse in to the pavement at right angles and bump up onto the kerb next to another car who has done the same. By this time, JC and I are stressed. Anyway job done. I close the side blinds and back curtains, and list Gybo onto one of the seats knowing she will fall into a long sleep easily as she has been awake all day. Hopefully Kicker will do the same.

We walk round the corner to the French restaurant Vincent and go in without even looking at the menu. The restaurant is open, the atmosphere is inviting and we are now starving. It has taken an hour to park up.

Food here is excellent. I have seabass fillets cooked in a lemon and chive sauce and JC has beef bourgignon. The kind, young waitress suggests the amuse bouche if we aren't having starters and at E1.50 each this sounds great. Tiny little tasters with a beetroot mousse being the most delicious.


Still haven't mastered the camera. The flash didn't go off! I am missing my Panasonic.

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Shopping


27th February

Found a sweet jewellery shop in Fuseta run by an English speaking husband and non English speaking wife. They have a small selection of watches but I am now desperate. So a purchase is made on a sports watch with rubber strap and waterproof to 100 ft or maybe meters or could be miles, but whatever, it is unlikely to be put to the test.

Then to the dog food shop which had Royal Canine dog food galore. In England, this brand is regarded as the most expensive of all. But we had not heard of any of the other brands which were all Portugese. Royal Canine does speciality foods for different breeds. Spaniels, Alsatiens, Poodles, snauzers, etc but not Tibetan Terriers, and certainly not for dogs of 13 years old!

The shop had many staff running around but it was difficult to get any help. I finally found someone who spoke a bit of English, and with my Ponglais, we established he had more Royal Canine out the back, and a 15kg bag was brought out for medium sized dogs over 8. That'll do. JC says, but where are we going to put it when we start travelling. No idea, but we'll manage.

 

Quelfes

26th February

Monthly flea market at village behind Olhao. Really difficult to park as everyone parking on the side of the road, but it is too narrow for the van. Eventually we find somewhere and leave the pups in the van. The watch I brought with me was bought in Spain about 15 years ago at a market like this. It has been a brilliant watch and one of my favourites, but has finally given up the ghost so I am on the look out for another. The market at Vila Nova de Cachela had lots of fake brand watches, so hopefully this market will be the same. Nope. It has no watches other than second hand stuff. Actually quite an interesting market with loads of antiques, but nothing of interest for us.

Got back to find Debbie had emailed my dog letter back in Portugese with the warning that it might make things worse. Oh dear. Of course it is easy to do nothing. and I feel I have to do something. I feel so upset every time we drive pas the dog on the way out from the house. Anyway I need to get it printed now so I have a few days to think about it.

The sun is out so changed into my shorts for a short while. It always starts to cool down at 4.00 ish anyway.

We are running out of Gybo's special hepatic food so I called a vet in Olhao (very impressed they are open on a sunday) and spoke to nice Sonja. She spoke enough English to take an order for some tins, and said she would call me back. She also gave me the name and address of a shop that sold ordinary dog biscuits as I need some of those for Kicker. Am beginning to feel like a local now!